The plan was to walk to San Mauro and have a taxi return us to Pontevedra. San Mauro did not have lodgings that met our criteria. Most pilgrims continue on instead, to Caldas de Reis, a larger town, where more bed spaces are available.
The arrangement worked well for us, as it did in Vigo. The backpack load was lighter; the terrain easier; the distance is short. We were to follow the train tracks. Because of the rain, some of the trails was wet and muddy but the view was awesome.
The morning sun colored the earth in deep sienna tones and the plant foliage was green after the rain. We come across vineyards here and there. It was so tempting to pick them. I think a few pilgrims would have plucked a few.
After about 10 km on the walk, we found a resting place, a cafe. Pilgrims arrive at the scene in a constant trickle. Pontevedra is a point of convergence where the Coastal and the Central routes meet. The latter travels more inland and follows the historic trail, but they intersect. We chose the flatter terrain, sacrificing the historical sites that lie along the Central. Having already walked 100 km, we knew had made a wise choice at the start.
The cafe was called Don Pulpo. When we arrived, the tables were already full of customers enjoying their coffee and beer. The restroom was in great demand. The line was long and unruly. I line up for the men’s and accessible restroom, but as soon as the previous occupant leaves, a woman cuts into the line. I got to do my thing and then order some drinks.
In front of the cafe, some shaded benches were available. The plaza was busy. Some hunkered down at the chapel’s shaded portico for lack of sitting space. Pat went to try her luck at the restrooms. After a while, she joins me, exasperated. The women we met at As Chivas, she recounts, did a blocking maneuver (as in basketball), to allow all their friends to use the restroom first to avoid waiting in line. Hmm, I thought. They’re Spanish. Sounds familiar? The “swapang” (Tag. unwilling to share) mentality. Guess where the Filipinos inherited it from?
We were happy when the taxi arrived, eager to return to town. Pontevedra, one of the most historic towns on the Camino, had much to offer we have read. An entire day was there to enjoy it.
