Pt.2

The next stage of the Camino from Vigo is Redondela, 15km away. Portugal Green Walks, our trip consultant, could not find lodgings in Redondela that met our criteria. The arrangement would be to transfer us back to Vigo when we reach Redondela and spend the night at the same hotel. This change of pace was welcome. It meant the walk to Redondela would be less stressful. We can reduce our backpack load with bare essentials to just water and snacks and not have to look for our hotel, dinner, and repack for the next stage. A second night would be relaxing.

Vigo, the largest city in Northern Spain, sits on a hill. The path downhill led to the port and the train station, one of the largest in Spain. It was all downhill from the hotel until we reach the older part of the city in search of Rua Urzaiz. Vigo was exasperating to navigate. The streets don’t have a grid system. It must have been an urban nightmare to redevelop the city. A lot of street work is happening. We found Rua Urzaiz at the corner of a small plaza. An elderly man holding pieces of paper stops us muttering something. I caught the word “redondela” in the stream of words. I wove him off, thinking it was some ruse to buy something (it’s hard to shed the tough San Francisco city attitude towards strangers). He insisted on my taking the piece of paper, almost with dedicated intent. Pushing his hand back and forth. I relented and took the paper from this hand. It was a map showing the directions from the city to the trailhead towards Redondela. Now he points at my iPhone and gestures. Take a picture please, anyway. I did so. Indeed, the map gave better directions than our guidebook. I then realized that the man was on a mission—to assist pilgrims as a way of gaining indulgence. Reading the ways of the Camino continues to be a learning process.

It’s nice to travel light. We followed the yellow arrows to lead us to the edge of the city and enter the trailhead. Quite a few pilgrims were on the road already early in the morning. Their backpacks created a hunchback image as they trudge bent down on their walking sticks on the rural road. Friendly locals enjoyed their early morning walk with their large dogs. One or two cyclists would whisk by. The polite ones greeted us with bon caminos. Up the hill, a crew was clearing a plot of trees. A future residence in the woods, perhaps? The view would be fantastic. Another road led uphill toward us. The couple of pilgrims who come out of it asked if they were on the correct path. We hadn’t realized there was another route from Vigo.

Not too long after, we reach a crossroads where the tarmac is painted with wavy lanes. The road sign says “Senda de Agua” — the water path. Redondela is known for water viaducts, an engineering heritage from the Romans. We are, in fact, on an old Roman road.

This takes us into short forests in and out of hillside villages. The route was easy to follow, with a few stops along the way. At one stop, Joseph of Minnesota caught up with us. We last saw him in Oia, two days ago. He was aiming to get to Pontevedra on the same day. That’s 25 km at least! We stay back and wish him Bon Camino.

Further along on, still on the country road, we come upon a large group of men and women praying the rosary in Spanish by the edge of the trail. Oddly enough, the man leading the prayer was speaking through a bullhorn. I thought that to be overkill. There was hardly any ambient noise except for the rustle of leaves in the wind, and sometimes a plane overhead. But who are we to question their devotion? Not too long, I had an answer. We stop at a rather imposing cafe, a two-floor affair. Cafe Cedeira, the sign said. I was hankering for some Sidra. We set down at a table and ordered drinks. I had some leftover sandwiches but Pat said not to eat there. It would appear discourteous. I default to my trailmix then. I looked around to see if they had a sello- stamp at the bar. Yes, indeed, but there was a line waiting their turn. Apparently, the praying group we sighted earlier had sent out a member to stamp each of their passports! I guess I heard 20 thumping sounds while holding up 3-4 people in line. When line died down, I took my turn to stamp our passports and then thanked the bartender. So much for communitas. It appears, for some, each pilgrim is to his own. (We also witnessed groups hogging a bathroom until their group has finished!)

Our guidebooks say we are 200 meters above sea level. On our left, when we reach an open vista, we can see the port of Vigo and its modern bridge. It’s an impressive sight. The new and the old. We reach the outskirts of Redondela. The viaduct was a sure sign we have arrived and follow narrow cobblestone streets into a plaza. A river divides the plaza from the main road. On the corner, by the river bank, sat an old building. The sign by the entrance read:

Albergue de peregrines de Xunta de Galicia Casa da Torre.

It looked like an impressive castle-like building. Another sign said royal factory for sargadelos. I asked the front desk what the old factory did. “Ceramics.” The lady said. I took note for a later look-up. It felt like noon and we were hungry. We brought sandwiches. What we needed was some Sidra. I rushed to cross the plaza to the busy cafe in front. “Dos Sidra y espresso, signora.” Two chilled bottles of cider and espresso with complimentary cookies. What a blessing.

Pat and I sat on a park bench and watch the children scamper about. A motorcar train hooted by with its load of tourists. Refreshed by Sidra. I was ready to call for our transfer. While we wait at the plaza corner for our taxi, two women came up and greeted us. We have seen each as far back as Esposende, some 70 km. ago. Since we got here earlier, we guess they had been walking the whole length until now. Sandra and Lina came from Brazil and started off from Porto as we did. Like old friends, we greeted and hugged each other and take selfies. Sandra and Lina will try to get to Pontevedra that day.

It was a nice and easy walk. Our air-conditioned taxi ride back to Vigo was a relief from the hot trek. The passenger view of Vigo was refreshing, driving along the edge of the bay and back to our hotel. We had a few hours to wander around before we started hunting for dinner. We have never been so relaxed since we left Porto.